'Just World News' with Helena Cobban: Syria-2

Syria-2

Posted by Helena Cobban
November 24, 2004 2:32 AM EST | Link
Filed in Syria

(From Damascus. Written Tuesday evening.) As I started writing this, the plaintive quarter tones of the evening call to prayer were reverberating from the minaret very near to us. Now, that one's stopped and I can hear other ones coming thinly from other minarets around town. On Saturday, when we had dinner at a restaurant up on Jebel Kassioun looking down on the city, we could see many of its minarets picked out with green neon lighting: little green spears sticking up from a broad, spreading carpet of orange street lights and lit-up homes.

From ground-level I've seen some of the churches that have blue lighting for the crosses topping them. Sunday evening we wandered around the shadowed streets of the Old City's Christian Quarter and heard the broad tones of heavy church bells. Church bells on a cold and rainy Sunday evening... that reminds me of so many poignant things about my childhood.

Last night, we went out to dinner with Mahat Farah Khoury, an older woman with a long career as a writer and journalist who for many years s also directed the local office of the Middle East Council of Churches. The weather had been whipping up for a storm throughout most of the day and by the time we left her house for the restaurant at 9:15 p.m. it was snowing in town.

This morning, it was still very cold. I looked from the hotel-room window up to Kassioun, which was wearing a cape of white snow on its craggy, sandy-colored outcroppings. The Palestinian professor who'd been planning to come into town to meet us this morning called to say that her home, over toward the Lebanon border, was quite snowed in. Bill and I decided that--since it wasn't actually snowing or raining--we should get out and do some good walking around town. First, we went to an oud (lute) maker whose location in Souq as-Surouja we found in the Lonely Planet, to do a little business. We made a few wrong turns along the way. But eventually we made a single turn north from the modern-day bustle of Shukri Kuwatly Street, and descended three steps from there back almost straight into the middle of the 19th century. That little street had square cobbles; it was lined with two-story wattle-and-daub houses and shops, many with second-floor balconies or wood-latticed windows canted out over the street on thick wooden beams. Over the street, too, hung the limp vestiges of what, in the summer, must have been shady grape arbours.

We found the oud maker's place easily there. It was a tiny storefront with an oud hanging outside it. Inside, the craftsman (Nabil) sat filing away at the neck of an insturment. His entire stock was hung in the store above him, and there was barely enough floor space for Nabil, his apprentice, Bill, me, and Nabil's electric lathe, so whenever anyone wanted to move everyone else had to make adjustments in three dimensions. We did not buy an oud then and there...

After we left we took a cab to the Bab al-Saghir ("Little Gate"), at the far side of the walled Old City. Foolishly, we exited the cab quite some way away from the Bab al-Saghir, and had to walk back to it between large walled cemeteries. Our destination was two once-private houses within the Old City that the LP had identified as gems of mid-18th century architecture: the Sibai House and the Nizam House. The LP was, as so often, completely right. These two houses were more run-down and slightly smaller versions of the Azem Palace, which we'd revisited on Sunday. All three grand homes were built in the distinctive Damascene style of banded layers of contrasting dark and light stone: lovely, complex structures built around internal courtyards graced by fountains and big old citrus trees; all of them sport beautifully airy, high-arched diwans-- reception rooms that have gorgeous painted-woode ceilings and one side completely open onto the fountains of the main (male-only) courtyard.

We poked around a little in each house. Private homes are the hidden treaures of the walled cities of the old Middle East. As you pass down the twisty, mean alleys that snake through the cities, their thousands of private homes carefully hide their charms from the prying eyes of outsiders (and from the heat of the summer sun.) But once you go into thehomes, including many even of the smallest ones, you find these stunning courtyards and living spaces designed for privacy and relaxation. My ex-husband had cousins who lived in just such a place near the Bab al-Sharqi (Eastern Gate) here. Now, though, that one has been turned into some kind of a tourist magnet and has neon all over its front...

Well, we didn't go there this morning. After the two houses that we did see we headed north for a possible stop at one of the coffee-houses to the east of the Omayyad Mosque. But on one tiny lane we were walking along there, my eye was suddenly riveted by a storefront displaying some superb Palestinian-style embroideries. (Anyone who knows me knows what a sucker I am for these.) So we had to go in. The work was beautiful: intricate, well designed, and well finished. It was made by women in the Yarmouk refugee camp, the salesman told us. They used traditional Palestinian designs (as we could see), but the work was made up into sales goods according to ideas and patterns provided a German women of whose work in this field we had already heard. How lucky that we'd found this little cluster of stores! We hurried out half an hour later with several Christmas presents tucked under our arms...

In the early evening, we went back to the oud maker. Our order wasn't ready yet. So we walked along to the Old City, which we approached this time from the northwest corner, walking along the cobbled road that runs between the northen edge of the massive Ottoman citadel and the tumbling gray waters of the Barada River. At the point where the Citadel ended we turned south into the Old City and walked along a narrow but still busy street (Housewares-ville, you could call this area of the souk, I think) until we hit the Souk al-Hamidiyeh (Embroidered Brassieres, truly louche Belly-dance Outfits, and Tableclothes-ville-- nearly all of it).

We turned east along the barrel-vaulted space of the Hamidiyeh, dodging the importunings of several tablecloth salesmen, came to the Omayyad Mosque, and walked around to arrive at the point Bill had identified earlier in the day as the location of a couple of interesting coffee-houses. Indeed, the one we went into had truly--as the Lonely Planet told us-- been installed inside the lovely, banded-stone building of a former Arab-style hammam (bath-house). We mounted very steep steps to go in, then wandered through a number of the hammam's different chambers, each one now furnished with simple tables and chairs for coffee-drinkers and narghileh-smokers. The domed ceilings had glass sunlight catchers studded into them. Once painted white, the domes were now slicked with the tawny residues of hundreds of narghilehs. On the banded-stone walls hung some ancient grainy photographs of the city.

I'm always a little wary of Middle Eastern coffee-houses as being (predominantly) male spaces. But this one had several women clients and people did not make me feel out-of-place at all. We had mint tea while admiring the surroundings and listening to the "click-clack" of two men playing backgammon in the next room. The other clients in our room were three young-ish people speaking Persian. Everything was very relaxed.

I guess I haven't mentioned anything about the large numbers of Iranian tourists here in the city. There are a number of Shi-ite holy places in and around Damascus. So despite the fact that the city was predominantly the headquarters of the contested Caliph Omayya, scourge of the Shi-ites, many Shi-ites like to come here on religious pilgrimages, and given the fairly close political links between the Syrian and Iranian governments, the Iranians facilitate or perhaps even help support the visits here of scores of thousands of Iranian pilgrims each year. You can see them in the main souqs during shopping hours: mainly women... flocks of figures swathed in chadors in a range of plain black or flowered fabrics, all clustered together around a tour guide. When Bill was in the Omayyad Mosque the other day he saw several groups of them there, though the main item there of religious significance to Shi-ites is apparently the alleged head of Hussein Ibn Ali, brought there as a trophy by Omayya's followers after they had vanquished him in battle. Memorialization is an interesting thing.

* * *

So which interesting people have we been seeing here? One was Sheikh Salah Kuftaro, President of the Abu Nour Foundation, a Sunni Muslim institute of higher learning founded by the late Grand Mufti of Syria, Sheikh Ahmed Kuftaro. Sheikh Ahmed passed away some three months ago at a very advanced age.

We had a very warm welcome from Sheikh Salah, whom I had met two years ago when I was in Syria with two other members of our Quaker delegation. This time, I gave him a copy of the book that resulted from that whole, region-wide fact-finding mission. Then, he talked with Bill and me more about the current situation. He said that people in Syria feel very angry about what the Americans have been doing in Falloujah, and disaapointed in the lack of any effective response to that from many Arab governments. (No real surprise there, perhaps.)

The whole Abu Nour Foundation is a very interesting project. The Syrian regime, which has always prided itself on its "modern", secular nature, had its own, very violent encounter with Sunni extremism back in the early 1980s. At that time, Sunni militants made many attacks against regime-related targets and along the way killed scores or perhaps hundreds of Syrian civilians. The government cracked down very hard. In February 1982 it counter-attacked, launchinga military-scale assault against the militants' main stronghold in the northern city of Hama that leveled a number of city blocks in the center of the city-- including its historic Grand Mosque. Perhaps as many as 1,200 or so civilians were killed there... That assault, and a few years of maintaining tight police measures against suspected militants, beat back the "threat" that the militants had posed to the country. In a parallel measure, the regime encouraged the development by people connected with the Grand Mufti of a more "modern", liberal strand of Sunni Islam to which believers could adhere... So that's where we were: the Abu Nour Foundation.

Sheikh Salah said he could agree with the American project of putting an end to Saddam Hussein's regime. But he also said he strongly opposed many of the things the Americans had done in Iraq ever since then-- especially, the massive use of force against Fallujah and other places. And he speculated that many in the Bush administration seemed to be driven by a brand of fundamentalism that seemed almost exactly to mirror that of Osama Bin Laden. Arguing from his reading of the Muslim holy texts he spoke strongly against the use of violence in all circumstances except in cases of immediate self-defense. And he decried any use of aggressive violence that claimed to be motivated by "religion". He criticized Bin Laden very harshly on this score-- as he also criticized people who kidnap and kill civilians in a place like Iraq.

On church and state issues, he argued that religious institutions should not seek to take over the powers of governments. Indeed, he said, "religion should return to the mosques."

Many people in the west love to whine and complain and say "Where are the Muslim voices that speak out against Bin Laden?" Perhaps they should look in a place like Syria-- and also listen carefully to everything else a very moderate Muslim thinker like Sheikh Salah Kuftaro says, as well...

We also had a good meeting (in Gemini, one of Damascus's absolutely hippest restaurants) with my friend and colleague Ibrahim Hamidi, the bureau chief for Al-Hayat here in Damascus. I was so happy to see him! The last time I saw him, when I was here in December 2002, we had a couple of really interesting discussions-- and then, just four days later he was thrown into jail on what looked very much like a trumped-up accusation of "disclosing state secrets." Some time later he was sentenced to, I believe, six years imprisonment. He spent five months ("five months and two days," he told us, to be precise) in jail, all or nearly all of it in solitary confinement. And then, in late May 2003, he was released..

As we sat down to lunch I started asking him about the whole experience he had gone through in prison. He said he was never tortured in any direct way, either physically or mentally. But he found the solitary confinement hard to bear. He said he could not speak at all for a couple of days after he was released. In addition, that winter was bitterly cold, and he came out with problems in his knees that required lengthy physiotherapy. He said he realized pretty early on during his imprisonment that he needed to take good care of himself, both physically and mentally, on the supposition it was possible he'd be in jail for the rest of his life. "I made a systematic attempt to get to know myself," he said at one point. He also said he walked up and down his cell for around seven hours per day.

Right now he's free-- and working again-- under some kind of parole-like arrangement, though he still has to go back to the police for periodic hearings. The next one is on December 23rd. I asked him if it was okay for me to write about what he'd told me of his prison experiences. He thought a moment, then said "Yes."

We talked a bunch about many other things... Including that just last February, he got married. His wife, Dima Wannous, is a translator and has recently completed a translation from French to Arabic of The Pianist. For which, he said, she already has a publisher here... (Longtime JWN readers might remember that I really loved-- if that's the right word-- the movie of The Pianist. Actually, I found the book even more striking than the movie, for a number of reasons.) But how great if the translation will be published here... I know, when I was in Ramallah in February, that several of Palestinian friends there had been to a screening of the movie held in an art cinema there, and had found it very moving.

... Well, it's Wednesday morning now. I need to go find out what's up with the world. Later today, we're hoping to see Sadeq al-Azem, the great Syrian intellectual who's this year's winner of Europe's ultra-prestigious Erasmus Prize, and then drive back to Beirut. Let's hope Sadeq has the time to see us and that the passes over the mountains to Beirut are open in the late afternoon....

Comments

Comment from... David, at November 24, 2004 11:07 PM:

Thanks Helena for you notes from the trip. They are very useful and informative in ways that cannot be found elsewhere.

David

Comment from... Leila, at November 25, 2004 12:30 AM:

I have longed to see Damascus for most of my life. Somehow every visit to Lebanon (and I've only gone twice since the war ended) ends up consuming all of my time and energy, and I give up on a quick trip to Damascus, with regret. Your description reminds me of what I am missing. THank you.

Comment from... Rowan Berkeley, at November 29, 2004 11:58 PM:

Re the "very moderate Muslim thinker Sheikh Salah Kuftaro" (I am glad you don't use the trendy transliteration Shaykh) :

Surely it stands to reason that a Sunni Sheikh selected by the Syrian 'Alawite regime will be a pluralist? Although Sunnis are a majority in Syria, since the rulers are not Sunni his position has to be closer to that of the anti-Wahhabi Shi'a clerics of Iraq than to that of the Wahhabis (let alone to that of the global insurgents, such as Bin Laden and Zarqawi, who are Qutbists).

Isn't this precisely why the Western powers installed minority members as rulers in their colonial possessions in the first place : to prevent theocratic integration?

Comment from... Awake, Y A a A, at December 5, 2004 04:42 PM:

Another example would be today's India, where one can hope the Sikhs in power will prove better at reducing Muslim-Hindu violence than the Hindu "nationalists" were.

But the Asad family did not come to power as a result of any intentional plan to put an Alawi at the top, it was the result of Hafez Asad emerging as the member of the Ba'th Revolutionary Council who had the intelligence and judgement to navigate his way to the top during a terrible period for the Arabs.At that time Islam was not perceived as a strong political movement in itself, but a Sunni leader of Syria might have been suspected of favoring the traditional feudalistic economy of colonial Syria.

The French in Syria and Lebanon displayed a definite tendency to try to politically segregate along sectarian lines if possible, rather than promoting minority control.

It is true that the British ended up putting Hashemite Sunnis on two thrones, one of which had a slim Shi'ite majority (while allowing the patriarch to be removed from his throne) and empowered a Jewish minority in Palestine, their motives and intentions in so doing were much cruder than a carefully considered strategy for reducing sectarian tensions.Weren't "Divide and rule" and "Empire on the cheap" Churchill's slogans in 1921-22? Given that they wanted to impose that sort of plan on a nation which indicated to the King-Crane Commission that they wanted anything but division and foreign rule, it served the neo-colonialist purpose to create division or exploit existing ones...a lesson that some in the US regime seem to have learned.

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